1/2 hiking trail ikon

1/2 hiking trail

1/2.

The hiking trail starts at the Serbian-Hungarian border - Horgoš (Horgos) /Kamaraš (Kamaráserdő) - Láda island - Budzsák (Budzhak) riverbank - Görbe brook - ends at Keresztes hillock (Keresztes halom)  (Section 1/1. of the international hiking trail starts from the Flood Monument in Szeged)

Trail-markings:

Yellow bar

Distance (level):

9.06 km

Time:

2 hours 30 minutes

Year of opening of the trail:

2007

Entity responsible for section 1/2. of the trail:

IRINGÓ Honismereti és Környezetvédő Civilszervezet, Horgos

Access: Section 1/2. of the hiking trail starts at the first overpass of the Horgoš border crossing and joins section 1/1. You can travel back to Horgoš and Szeged by bus from the Martonoš (Martonos) access road and from Kanjiža (Magyarkanizsa).


Leaving the Horgoš-Röszke border crossing point behind us, continuing towards the European highway towards Subotica (Szabadka), we can see the first overpass ahead of us, crossing the road. We will take this overpass from the right side of the highway (the Vermes Grange stood here once, which was demolished after World War II, and today only the Vermes forest site announces the former place of this culture). We cross from the right side over to the left.

Actually section 1/2. of the trail starts on top of overpass nr. I. If we look to the South from here, we can see Horgoš village, resettled by the Kárász family in 1771, a noble family who moved here originally from the town of Szeged. The first, destroyed, fishing village of the same name, is mentioned by king Géza I. in 1075, in his royal decree. We can see a forest strip to the left, which continues further, along the border with Hungary. Coming down on the left side of the overpass, we arrive to a sandy lane. We turn left here and continue to another sandy lane - the Vermes lane (Vermes dűlő). We turn right here and arrive to the former Szeged-Subotica highway. Turning right again, we continue on our trail until we reach a “Y”-shaped junction. On the right, we can see from afar the villa of the former watchmaker from Szeged, Otto Brauswetter(Pictures 1 and 2) that even Béla Bartók visited once. The residence and former shop of the Brauswetter family can be found in Szeged, in Oskola utca. It is worth to take this road to go see the villa designed by the Hungarian architect from Szeged, Ede Magyar. Once we’re back from the villa, we take the road on the left to continue the trail. Walking along the tracks of the Szeged-Subotica rails, we arrive to a rundown railway station 

This is the former railway station of the first “Officers’ resort” called “Kamaráserdő” (now Kamaraš), of the former, historic Hungary. It was also designed by the famous architect from Szeged, Ede Magyar. The road takes a right turn here at the station. You’ll mostly see lilacs and old villas in ruins on both sides. All the villas in Kamaráserdő were also designed by Ede Magyar. The sights here will only become clear and interesting if we also read the illustrated description, entitled “A Horgos melletti egykori Kamaráserdő nyomában”, (On the traces of the former Kamaraš resort next to Horgos), in the 2005 Yearbook of Móra Ferenc Museum in Szeged, issue 8 of Historical Studies, to better understand what we see. The villas end at the Géza Kárász canal. From here, the dirt road leads down to the former park, which, as time passed, has become a forest. Before we reach the small forest, let's look to our right and left. This used to be a pine forest, where we only see fields and farmlands today. Reaching the small forest, where the yellow sign indicating the beginning of the protected area of KamarašPark Forest stands, the road splits into two forks, but we keep straight to the right, continue through the forest on a dirt road, across a swampy lake.

An arched wooden bridge used to stand here once, at the place of this dam, fish used to swim in the clear waters of the lake, while people from upper-middle classes gently floated by on boats. Here we are in the forest already. Even though we will not stray from this path, if we continued to the right, there would have been a lane of lilac trees leading up to the former spa resort - today you can hardly even tell where the lane used to be.  On the small slope to the left - which today is completely covered by trees - used to stand the famous hotel and several stories high concert hall of Béla Ormódy, the founder of the resort. Nowadays you can only notice the slope covering the area of the former buildings. Next to the ruins of the hotel and concert hall, along the road, we will see a torrential well on a small grove, drilled in 1990. We can quench our thirst with its cool, fresh water. Then we continue on our path, refreshed and energetic. Leaving the well behind, before coming out of the forest, we will see a small hill on the left-hand side, covered in bushes. The green hides the remains of the former knights’ castle of Géza Kárász, who lived in Szeged and had the castle built in 1875. Even though the construction was never finished, one could see all the way to Szeged from its former, 16 m high roof. After the Second World War the “incoming residents” demolished the castle to use the bricks for their houses. Today only the Norther stone wall remains, which locals call the “owl castle ruin”. Coming out of the forest, we can see the remains of the Kamarási hillock to our right. Géza Kárász had a brick kiln built here, to help the construction of his now “vanished knights’ castle”. The hillock also shelters some burial tombs from the time of the great migrations. Then, from the road or from top of the hillock, we can admire the flat Láda island stretching into the distance. It was once surrounded by the Láda lake, the Tisa (Tisza) river’s floodplain. From this point, we can also see quite well the backwater of the river in the distance, lined with trees. After that we will arrive to a junction next to the hilltop. We take the road to the left, from where we can also see the Reök riverbank at a near distance. Getting closer to the riverbank, we cross the bridge of a small canal, which actually flows in the bed of the former River, from the Madarász lake on the Hungarian side. Here, we’re actually in the former estuary of the River. Then we reach a road junction again and see a yellow sign, indicating the protected area of the Fényes Lake. Our trail turns to the right, but before we continue, it is worth going up to the Reök riverbank for the panorama, on the carved path to the left, which still has the imprints of horses passing through it for centuries. (This used to be the “warpath”. Since this was the closest area to the Tisa river where armies could pass through the backwater, the following people have led their troops through here through the ages:  Attila the Hun, Ond Hungarian chieftain, Vajta Cuman chieftain, Bazkán Cuman leader, Kun László (Ladislaus the Cuman) Hungarian king, Kadan and Bedzhak Mongolian commanders, János Hunyadi Hungarian general, Ibrahim Ottoman pasha, Kasim Ottoman pasha, Ferenc Rákóczi II. Hungarian general, Kálmán Derra and Antal Czintula Hungarian majors, count Károly Vécsey Hungarian admiral etc.). Another interesting thing about the riverbank is that it has a special healing effect. If we do go up to the riverbank, we should only return after paying our respects at the tomb of Iván Reök (1856-1923) in the lilac grove on the left, who was a royal river engineer born in Békéscsaba.

Iván Reök was the was the builder of the Art Nouveau Reök Palace in Szeged, later became a landowner in Kamarás. He also had a palace built on that land by Ede Magyar, architect from Szeged. The famous painter, Mihály Munkácsy visited him there several times, since they were cousins. Iván Reök had the Horgos section of the Tisa embankment built according to earlier works and drained the Láda Lake, the flood plain of the Tisa river, transforming it into today's farmlands. He was also the vice-president of the Officers’ Club in Szeged and a big patron of Hungarian cultural life in Horgoš. The new country border, redrawn in 1920, separated his real estates, left them divided between two countries. the new border stood between his palace in Szeged, Hungary and his grange in Kamarás. He died mourning this loss. According to his wish, he wasn’t buried in the cemetery in Horgos, but as close as possible to his homeland, on the bank of the River of his grange, around the old tomb from the times of the great migrations. Now let’s go back to the junction of the dirt road and pay special attention to continue on the road that was turning to the right on our way here! This one will be a smaller embankment road that was also constructed by Iván Reök. The Fényes lake used to stretch to our left once, but today only groundwater collects in it after heavy rainfall. Wherever the embankment runs out, we arrive to the saline island of Láda. At the turn of the century, the resort used to have a horse race track with high stands here. Then it was used as an airport during World War II. On this oval island, overgrown with grass and reed, only this road passes through, so this also the only way to go back again. We follow its turns to get to the Southern edge of the island. Tall poplar trees stand here. On our way here, we pass through a lock bridge. The canal that runs through the bottom of the former Kender Lake on the right, is the continuation of the canal that traverses the former River basin, leading into the Tisa.

Hereby, we see the Budzsák riverbank stretching out in front of us. We turn left, continuing our trail under the apricot trees. On the right side of the riverbend, under the tree plantation, lay some hidden Avar tombs. They were excavated then buried again, then trees were planted on top of them - nothing is visible from the tombs today. At the sandy slope below the apricot trees we reach another junction. Here, turning left again, we carry on along the apricot trees. (The right-hand road leads to Budzsák grange.). Walking along the road between the poplar trees on the left and apricot trees on the right, we reach a grassy corner - that is the so-called Budzsák, which means corner (bucak) in Turkish. At the next junction we take the road to the right again. Continuing the trail, we are walking through acacia trees to the right and silvery-olive bushes to the left, until we reach the yellow sign indicating the beginning of the protected area of the Budzsák. Then we continue our trail on the slightly higher road in the middle. (The road on the left leads to the hook-like curb of the Tisza backwater, the so-called Devil hole (Ördöglyuk). On the right, the road climbs up to the former border of the counties Csongrád and Bács-Bodrog - you can take this path to get to the Sóti pub, to the Horgoš-Kanjiža (Horgos-Magyarkanizsa) highway and bus stop.). Reaching this junction, it is worth going into the Budzsák forest for a short while, because it grew on top of an ancient, undisturbed hillfort. But when coming back from the forest, be careful to take the indicated path in the middle! The mostly grassy, overgrown dirt road is also the edge of the bedrock of the former Láda floodplain lake, as well as the continuation of the former county border road to the South. On the right, the borders of Bács-Bodrog and Csongrád counties passed through here once. The right side of this road is lined with blackberry bushes, above you can see fruit gardens ahead, and farmlands on the left. Our mostly ingrown dirt road trail will only continue between farm lands now. Görbe brook is to the right, up the slope, it is used today as a pond. There’s a path leading up to the pond, where you can stop for a picknick or even set up a tent in the designated area. It is worth going up there as well. Continuing on our trail, we will soon see the Keresztes hilltop. This is an artificial hilltop, a former border hilltop, which used to signify the county border.) This hilltop is the last station of section 1/2. of our trail - the trail continues with section 1/3. from here on.

It is worth climbing up the Keresztes hilltop before going any further. If you look East from up there, you will see Martonoš village with its church tower, its paprika dryers and train station, and a line of yew trees in the distance. Turning to the South you’ll get a glimpse of the contours of Kanjiža (Magyarkanizsa) and Mali Pesak (Kishomok) on the horizon and you’ll see the highway between Horgoš and Kanjiža below. To the West you will notice the trees lining the Görbe brook first, then to its right, the Budzsák forest sheltering the old hillfort in the woods. Finally, looking to the North, we can see Nagyrét, the former lake bed of the Láda floodplain lake in the distance. In clear weather, you can clearly see the church tower and water tower at Röszke. To their right, you can also see the white of the famous Pick salami factory in Szeged and in the same direction, the phone tower and water tower of the Rókus district of the town, as well as the church tower of its Fogadalmi church.